一觉醒来,表圈又迎 爆炸性消息 :
劳力士终止了
宝齐莱( Carl F. Bucherer)
腕表品牌。
之前虽有预料,但没想到劳力士如此之快就“下手”和决定了。真乃是快刀斩乱麻,一点儿也不犹豫。
劳力士就是这样,向来行为做事保守到要命,要变化一个传统已有的习惯或事情非常难,但如果决定了一个事,干起来也非常迅速----比如让宝齐莱死掉...
如果对劳力士与宝齐莱关系还不甚了解、或对宝齐莱也不了解的,可以先看钟表游2023年8月这篇: 劳力士收购了宝齐莱!
Waking up, the watch industry has once again witnessed an explosive piece of news: Rolex has terminated its relationship with the watch brand Carl F. Bucherer.
Although this was somewhat anticipated, no one expected Rolex to "take action" and make the decision so quickly. It really is like cutting through a tangled mess with a sharp knife, without the slightest hesitation.
Rolex is always like this. It has always been extremely conservative in its actions. It's incredibly difficult to change an existing traditional habit or matter. However, once it decides on something, it acts very quickly - like putting an end to Carl F. Bucherer...
If you don't quite understand the relationship between Rolex and Carl F. Bucherer, or are unfamiliar with Carl F. Bucherer, you can first read this article from August 2023 on "WatchTraveler":
还有: 全球最大专业表商自己造的手表究竟怎么样?
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我们再为大家梳理下相关历史脉络:
1888年 ,卡尔·弗里德里希·宝齐莱(Carl Friedrich Bucherer)在瑞士琉森(Lucerne)开办了一家珠宝腕表店。 自此开始宝齐莱的历史 。
1919年 ,腕表品牌宝齐莱(Carl F. Bucherer)正式创立。这一年,也是刚刚创办14年的劳力士(Rolex)把品牌总部由瑞士比尔迁往日内瓦、并正式成为一个日内瓦品牌的日子。
1924年 ,劳力士与宝齐莱展开合作,宝齐莱正式成为劳力士的代理商。
Let's sort out the relevant historical context for you:
In 1888, Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened a jewelry and watch store in Lucerne, Switzerland. This marked the beginning of the history of Carl F. Bucherer.
In 1919, the watch brand Carl F. Bucherer was officially founded. This year was also the time when Rolex, which had been established for only 14 years, moved its brand headquarters from Biel, Switzerland, to Geneva and officially became a Geneva-based brand.
In 1924, Rolex and Carl F. Bucherer started their cooperation, and Carl F. Bucherer officially became an authorized dealer of Rolex.
“1924年,Ernst Bucherer与劳力士创始人Hans Wilsdorf建立了富有成效的合作关系,将当时刚刚成立的手表品牌加入了Bucherere销售体系。如今,劳力士是世界上最著名的手表品牌之一,也是宝齐莱最重要的合作伙伴。”---- 来自劳力士官方发布的消息
宝齐莱家族第三代传人Jörg Bucherer也是最后一个认识劳力士创始人Hans Wilsdorf并与之共事的人。
"In 1924, Ernst Bucherer established a productive partnership with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, and added the newly established watch brand to the Bucherer sales system. Today, Rolex is one of the world's most renowned watch brands and also Carl F. Bucherer's most important partner." --- From the official news released by Rolex.
Jörg Bucherer, the third - generation heir of the Bucherer family, was also the last person who knew and worked with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex.
双方长久而卓有成效的合作自此展开,以至于后来宝齐莱成为劳力士在欧洲最重要的代理商,基本上有宝齐莱店,必有劳力士销售;很多在其他表店不一定能买到的劳力士,在宝齐莱多数情况一定能见到。
注: 在1919年拥有自有腕表品牌后,宝齐莱的腕表经销商体系和腕表品牌体系越来越分立,以至于后来成为两个独立的存在。实际上,经销劳力士的经销商是Bucherer,中文名为“宝嘉尔集团”:,而独立腕表品牌Carl F. Bucherer才是“宝齐莱”。
2018年 ,在宝嘉尔(Bucherer,即宝齐莱母公司) 收购美国最大奢侈钟表珠宝零售商 Tourneau后,宝嘉尔当仁不让成为 世界最大高级名表经销商 。实际在此之前,自当时的世界最大经销商中国的新宇亨得利拆分后,宝嘉尔就是世界最大名表经销商了。
A long - term and fruitful cooperation between the two sides thus unfolded. Subsequently, Carl F. Bucherer became Rolex's most important agent in Europe. Basically, where there was a Carl F. Bucherer store, there would be Rolex watches for sale. Many Rolex models that might not be available in other watch stores could mostly be found in Carl F. Bucherer stores.
It should be noted that after Carl F. Bucherer established its own watch brand in 1919, the watch dealership system and the watch brand system of Carl F. Bucherer became increasingly separate, and eventually became two independent entities. In fact, the dealer of Rolex is Bucherer, which is named "Bucherer Group" in Chinese, while the independent watch brand Carl F. Bucherer is what we refer to as "Carl F. Bucherer".
In 2018, after Bucherer (the parent company of Carl F. Bucherer) acquired Tourneau, the largest luxury watch and jewelry retailer in the United States, Bucherer rightfully became the world's largest high - end watch distributor. Actually, even before this, after the split of Sin 宇 Hengdeli from China, which was the world's largest distributor at that time, Bucherer had already been the world's largest high - end watch distributor.
▲ 宝嘉尔表店销售的品牌,除了劳力士,还有很多
2020-2023年 ,自2020年初Covid疫情开始后的几年,世界高级名表世界发生连续多年(至今)的畸形销售市场,包括劳力士在内的几个知名品牌出现店铺难以买到、二手市场疯狂溢价销售的情况。
From 2020 to 2023, in the years since the start of the Covid pandemic in early 2020, the global high - end watch market has experienced a distorted sales situation that has persisted for several years (and continues to this day). For several well - known brands, including Rolex, it has been difficult to purchase their watches in stores, while in the second - hand market, there has been rampant over - priced sales.
2023年8月24日 , 劳力士集团宣布收购 宝嘉尔(Bucherer) 。
即, 劳力士集团,自此也悄悄成了世界上最大的名表经销商 。“在Jörg Bucherer没有直系后代的情况下,他选择出售其公司的业务后,劳力士决定收购这家手表零售商”。
收购当时,Bucherer在全球拥有100多家销售网点,其中53家分销劳力士品牌,48家分销帝舵品牌。这家手表零售商也是这两个 品牌的官方售后服务中心。
2023年11月 , 全球最大腕表零售商宝齐莱(Bucherer)创始家族第三代继承人 Jörg G. Bucherer去世,享年87岁。
On August 24, 2023, the Rolex Group announced the acquisition of Bucherer.
That is, the Rolex Group has quietly become the world's largest luxury watch distributor since then. "In the absence of direct descendants of Jörg Bucherer, after he chose to sell the business of his company, Rolex decided to acquire this watch retailer."
At the time of the acquisition, Bucherer had more than 100 sales outlets globally, among which 53 distributed the Rolex brand and 48 distributed the Tudor brand. This watch retailer is also the official after - sales service center for these two brands.
In November 2023, Jörg G. Bucherer, the third - generation heir of the founding family of Bucherer, the world's largest watch retailer, passed away at the age of 87.
2025年2月7日 ,劳力士决定终止 宝齐莱(Carl F. Bucherer)腕表品牌 。自此,只有宝嘉尔(Bucherer),无有宝齐莱(Carl F. Bucherer)了。
一个曾经风云、曾经绸缪、曾经跌跌绊绊的运作了106年的腕表品牌,自此落下了帷幕。当然,在瑞士制表圈,任何一个在历史中“静默”的品牌都有可能“起死回生”。但此时,宝齐莱确实停止了。虽然宝齐莱在瑞士制表圈的发展和经营状况一直并非优秀,但在宝嘉尔母公司作为大经销商背景的加持下,一直还能不错发展,之前的外缘摆陀机芯风靡一时,腕表制作品质在这几年也量级提提升,推出了很多我们表迷和收藏家都喜欢的表款,比如马利龙系列计时码表。这么多年来,这是在瑞士制表圈,一家集团收购一个品牌后,直接终止所购品牌的最“惨烈”案例。实际上,这也揭开并推动了接下来瑞士制表圈潜在的可能要消失的品牌的消失速度。
On February 7, 2025, Rolex decided to terminate the Carl F. Bucherer watch brand. From then on, there is only Bucherer, and no more Carl F. Bucherer.
A watch brand that once had its heyday, made plans, and experienced ups and downs over 106 years of operation has thus come to an end. Of course, in the Swiss watch - making circle, any brand that has "gone silent" in history may potentially "come back to life". But at this moment, Carl F. Bucherer has indeed ceased operations. Although Carl F. Bucherer's development and business performance in the Swiss watch - making circle have never been outstanding, with the support of its parent company, Bucherer, as a major distributor, it had been developing fairly well. Its peripheral rotor movement was once very popular, and the quality of its watch - making has also been significantly improved in recent years. It has launched many watch models that are loved by watch enthusiasts and collectors, such as the Manero Chronograph. Over the years, this is the most "drastic" case in the Swiss watch - making circle where a group, after acquiring a brand, directly terminates the purchased brand. In fact, this has also uncovered and accelerated the potential disappearance of brands that may be on the verge of vanishing in the Swiss watch - making circle.
▲ 本文拟就之时,宝齐莱品牌官网还正常开放。图为表迷喜欢的宝齐莱马利龙系列计时码表
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最后,摘选来自《瑞士经济日报》2025年2月7日发自劳力士发源地比尔(Biel)的消息(大致翻译):
“ 《一个腕表品牌的终结》
劳力士撤销 Carl F. Bucherer 品牌
Carl F. Bucherer 腕表品牌是已故 Bucherer 顾主 Jörg Bucherer 的嗜好。这是一个昂贵的嗜好。劳力士现在要结束它了。 一个痛苦的结束总比没有结束的痛苦好。 这大概就是劳力士老板 Jean-Frédéric Dufour 决定终止 Carl F. Bucherer 腕表品牌的指导原则。 员工已于今天早上接到终止通知,余下专卖店的百叶窗即将关闭,宝齐莱专卖店的销售点也即将清空,转售其他品牌。 ”
Finally, an excerpt from a news report in the Swiss Economic Daily on February 7, 2025, dispatched from Biel, the birthplace of Rolex (rough translation):
"The End of a Watch Brand
Rolex Cancels the Carl F. Bucherer Brand
The Carl F. Bucherer watch brand was the hobby of the late Bucherer employer Jörg Bucherer. It was an expensive hobby. Rolex is now bringing it to an end. A painful end is better than the pain of no end. This is presumably the guiding principle behind Rolex's boss Jean - Frédéric Dufour's decision to terminate the Carl F. Bucherer watch brand. Employees received termination notices this morning. The shutters of the remaining specialty stores will soon be closed, and the sales points of Carl F. Bucherer specialty stores will soon be emptied to resell other brands."
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